The Kenmore Elite 90701 pumps it up.

Among the dehumidifiers we're testing for our July 2010 review of dehumidifiers (on ConsumerReports.org and newsstands in early June) is the Kenmore Elite 90701 (shown). In preliminary testing, the large-capacity Kenmore—with a claimed capacity of 70 pints per day—has excelled at removing water and, like most large-capacity dehumidifiers, has been extremely efficient.

What distinguishes the Energy Star-qualified Kenmore Elite 90701 from the other small, medium, and large models being tested is its built-in pump, which allows you to send water through the unit's hose to a utility sink or out a nearby window. The wheeled unit is also equipped with an auto-start feature, important for after a power outage.

At $300, the Kenmore Elite 90701 is expensive, however. A few other models we're testing cost $50 to $100 less and are performing nearly as well, though none has a pump.

In the meantime, use our free buyer's guide to dehumidifiers. And when you're ready to buy, look for incentives using the Energy Star rebate locator. Maine will offer cash for appliances rebates for dehumidifiers when its program starts on May 1.

—Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: If your home has standing water or a permanent musty smell, a dehumidifier alone won't fix the problem. Use our advice for dealing with moisture at its source.

Safely dispose of hazardous items.

The massive oil spill that's resulted from the fire at and sinking of the BP Deepwater Horizon rig in the Gulf of Mexico is an environmental nightmare, and myriad efforts are under way to try to deal with the spill, including controlled burns.

The news might get you to wondering about how to safely dispose of old oil (say from your lawn mower), paint, cleaners, yard chemicals, and other hazardous substances you spotted during spring cleanup of your garage, basement, workshop, or shed. The key thing to remember is that you shouldn't dispose of those substances with the trash. For good reason, most municipalities across the country ban you from getting rid of these materials as part of regular garbage disposal. Certainly don't throw or flush any of those liquids down the drain.

Your best bet is to dispose of these items at a municipal/county facility or through a municipal/county program that can safely handle oil, paint, cleaners, pesticides, and even batteries and old electronics equipment.

Many municipalities and counties run collection days during the spring. To find out when such an event is taking place near you, contact the environmental-protection or public-works department or visit its Web page, which you can find through your town's or county's site. On Earth911.com, you'll find more information on proper disposal by searching by material and ZIP code.

From our archives, here's some specific information for paint disposal and a range of other household items. If you're taking advantage of a cash for appliances rebate and replacing appliances, find out what to do you with your old kitchen and laundry equipment.

—Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: Use our spring-cleaning advice. And before you burn any leaves or yard debris you've collected during yard cleanup, read this item from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.

Safely dispose of hazardous items.

The massive oil spill that's resulted from the fire at and sinking of the BP Deepwater Horizon rig in the Gulf of Mexico is an environmental nightmare, and myriad efforts are under way to try to deal with the spill, including controlled burns.

The news might get you to wondering about how to safely dispose of old oil (say from your lawn mower), paint, cleaners, yard chemicals, and other hazardous substances you spotted during spring cleanup of your garage, basement, workshop, or shed. The key thing to remember is that you shouldn't dispose of those substances with the trash. For good reason, most municipalities across the country ban you from getting rid of these materials as part of regular garbage disposal. Certainly don't throw or flush any of those liquids down the drain.

Your best bet is to dispose of these items at a municipal/county facility or through a municipal/county program that can safely handle oil, paint, cleaners, pesticides, and even batteries and old electronics equipment.

Many municipalities and counties run collection days during the spring. To find out when such an event is taking place near you, contact the environmental-protection or public-works department or visit its Web page, which you can find through your town's or county's site. On Earth911.com, you'll find more information on proper disposal by searching by material and ZIP code.

From our archives, here's some specific information for paint disposal and a range of other household items. If you're taking advantage of a cash for appliances rebate and replacing appliances, find out what to do you with your old kitchen and laundry equipment.

—Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: Use our spring-cleaning advice. And before you burn any leaves or yard debris you've collected during yard cleanup, read this item from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.

We're about to remodel our kitchen and are considering moving our old refrigerator to an uninsulated garage to use it for supplemental fridge and freezer storage. Any concerns about doing that?

The major problem you can encounter running a refrigerator in the garage is that the freezer will warm up to above freezing, spoiling all the food you store in it. That situation can occur because the compressor on most refrigerators is controlled by a single thermostat located in the refrigerated compartment of the appliance.

A too-warm freezer will turn a pop to slop.

In such a setup, the freezer is indirectly controlled by the thermostat, which tries to maintain a temperature of 37° to 40°F in the refrigerated section. When the temperature in your garage nears temperature 37° to 40°F, the compressor doesn't need to run frequently or for very long, causing the freezer to get too warm.

Refrigerators designed for garage use have a different control system, which prevents the freezer from warming up when the refrigerated section doesn't need cooling. Some of these models are even equipped with a heater that will keep food in the refrigerated compartment from freezing if the garage gets too cold.

If you need only more freezer space, consider buying a standalone freezer, which will have a control set point near 0°F and will keep everything properly frozen no matter the garage temperature. For more information on freezers, use our free buyer's guide and check out our ratings of self- and manual-defrost uprights and manual-defrost chest models (available to subscribers).

Keep this information in mind if you're buying a new refrigerator or freezer through the cash for appliances rebate program in your state. Use our interactive map to see whether refrigerators and freezers are eligible for a rebate and to get more details about cash for appliances where you live.

If you plan to get rid of an old appliance, learn how to recycle or dispose of it properly.

Essential information: Stay on top of the appliance news here on the Home & Garden blog and at Twitter.com/CRHomegarden.

Are your clothespins getting lost and being scattered around the laundry room? Many people use a clothespin bag to keep their clothespins on the line at all times, so they are ready on hand. You can buy one online or even make your own out of recycled fabric. See how at:  

http://homemakingdreams.blogspot.com/2008/04/clothespin-bag-tutorial.html

Q. We need to wash the rags we use in our metal shop that are oily from a WD-40 and kerosene mix. Can you suggest an additive or soap that will break down the oil so that the rags are clean and the drain doesn’t become clogged with the oil runoff?

A. That is a pretty potent mixture you’re trying to cleanup. Since it is so highly concentrated with solvent, grease and oil, trying to wash them in a regular wash setting that is mostly water probably would yield not-so-good results. Even using industrial detergents wouldn’t be enough to do a good cleaning job. Not only do you have to worry about the drain problems, but drying these solvent laden items could risk creating a fire/explosion.

What you need is a more solvent-like environment that can melt that mixture off the cloths and keep it suspended in solution to prevent re-deposition back onto the cloths. So I would recommend a professional service which will clean them (kind-of like a drycleaner) and return them clean for you.
Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful.

Washers were top sellers in South Dakota.

With cash for appliances under way in most states and territories, the U.S. Department of Energy has started sharing details about the programs in a few states. We'll continue to keep you updated on cash for appliances on the Home & Garden blog and at Twitter.com/CRHomegarden. Here's what's happened in six states so far:

In true First State fashion, Delaware was first to roll out its rebate program, on December 1, 2009. Although more than 9,100 rebates have been processed so far, money remains. That may be due to the size of the rebates, which start at just $25.

Iowa, meanwhile, blew through its $2.7 million just 7 hours into its March 1 launch. "We had 1.9 million calls and we had 4.6 million web hits in one day—it was so big, it brought the system down," said Linda King, program planner for the Iowa Office of Energy Independence. Upwards of 9,000 Iowans earned $150 to $500 on a refrigerator, clothes washer, dishwasher, air conditioner, water heater, heat pump, furnace, or boiler. "We estimate very conservatively that this propelled Iowa's economy forward by $10 million in one day," noted King.

Activity has also been robust in Vermont, which timed the launch of its rebate program to coincide with the March 6 start of the state's annual sales-tax holiday. "People feel like they are somehow beating the system by combining the tax holiday with rebates," said Michael Russom, retail efficient market projects manager for Efficiency Vermont, who said that 80 percent of funds were spoken for that first day. Some funding remains.

In Georgia, about 24,000 rebates have been handed out since the February 12 kickoff. "Our number-one seller in this program has been clothes washers, with nearly 12,000 sold in six weeks," said Andrea Schroer, state energy-program manager. "Dishwashers are a close second with more than 8,000 sold."

Washing machines (33 percent of rebates) and dishwashers (27 percent) were also the top two sellers in South Dakota, which ran out of money on April 12, seven weeks after the program started. Refrigerators accounted for 26 percent of rebates, with freezers and water heaters generating 9 percent and 5 percent, respectively.

Indiana has limited its $6.12 million in rebates to boilers, furnaces, central air conditioners, and heat pumps. "We've focused on equipment that will produce the biggest energy savings and make the biggest cost difference for consumers," said Kristin Trovillion, program manager for the Indiana Office of Energy Development. "Many consumers are also combining the state rebates with utility incentives." That makes residents of the Hoosier State among the biggest cash for appliances beneficiaries, with some folks pulling in $1,000 or more. As of this afternoon, the state has more than $3.4 million in funding on hand, more than 11 weeks after the program launch.

Use our interactive map* to get the specifics of the cash for appliances rebates where you live, including eligible products, rebate amounts, and scheduling.

By clicking through to the Web site of the agency running the program, you might also find out how much money is left in the coffers. For example, New York's Great Appliance Swap Out, which started on February 12, has more than $2 million of the earmarked $18.7 million remaining.

—Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: Check out our free cash for appliances buyer's guides to air conditioners, dishwashers, refrigerators, washing machines, and water heaters.

*If the map indicates "This state is currently not running a Cash for Appliances program," use the Energy Department's map.

Can a slushie help you exercise longer?

"To Beat the Heat, Drink a Slushie First" in yesterday's New York Times cited a study at the New Zealand Academy of Sport in Auckland in which young males who drank a syrup-flavored ice slushie before running in a hot room were able to run for an average of 50 minutes before they had to stop, 10 minutes longer than when they drank only syrup-flavored cold water.

The study's senior investigator, Paul Laursen, wanted to know whether the slushies, which are colder than ice, might effectively cool the body before exercise. According to the Times' article, other researchers "have found they can delay the time to utter exhaustion by getting people a bit chilled before they start."

If you want to give the slushie theory a whirl, you'll need a blender that does a good job at crushing ice and making icy drinks. To find which model is right for you, check out our free blenders buyer's guide to blenders and blender ratings (available to subscribers). Among the many paces we put each blender through is its ability to make icy drinks.

The hot-weather hydration advice from our in-house health experts calls for plain old H₂0: Drink two to three cups of water two to three hours before you exercise and smaller amounts during the workout.

—Daniel DiClerico

0.6 percent

Year-over-year increase in the latest Standard & Poor's/Case-Shiller U.S. National Home Price Index. The modest gain for February 2010 over February 2009 represents the first uptick for the S&P/Case-Shiller home-price index since December 2006. Still, home prices in 11 out of 20 markets that make up the 20-City Composite declined.

"While the year-over-year data continued to improve for 18 of the 20 [metropolitan statistical areas] and the [10-City and 20-City] composites, this simply confirms that the pace of decline is less severe than a year ago," said David M. Blitzer, chairman of the index committee at Standard & Poor's, in a news release. "It is too early to say that the housing market is recovering."

—Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: If you're in the market for a new home but won't be able to take advantage of the federal government's tax credit for first-time home buyers, look into one real-estate company's Buyer Bonus Sales Event.

Coldwell Banker's "bonus" riffs on federal credit.

Coldwell Banker Real Estate is launching the Buyer Bonus Sales Event, an effort to boost home sales by having a seller offer a buyer a credit of 3 percent (up to $8,000) off the purchase price. Starting May 1, the deal offers buyers who sign a contract to purchase a home before July 31, 2010. There's no closing deadline once the contract is signed.

If you're in the market for a new home, look for a Coldwell Banker Buyer Bonus Sales Event yard sign or for properties tagged as a Buyer Bonus home on the Coldwell Banker Web site.

If the $8,000 figure sounds familiar that's because it equals the maximum federal tax credit, which is in effect until the end of this month. The federal tax credit applies to first-time home buyers who have not owned a principal residence during the three-year period prior to the purchase and who enter into a contract to buy a home by the end of this month and close by June 30.

The federal program also offers a $6,500 credit to what the Internal Revenue Service calls long-time residents, people "must have owned and used the same home as a principal or primary residence for at least five consecutive years of the eight-year period ending on the date of purchase of a new home as a primary residence." There's also an exception for members of U.S. armed forces and certain federal employees living abroad.

If you're a seller working with Coldwell Banker, you might want to ask your real-estate agent is willing to give up part of his/her commission since your sale price will have decreased.

—Gian Trotta

Essential information: If you're buying a new home, get a thorough home inspection and check out our home-buying basics.

If you want to make your laundry process even more environmentally friendly, you can always take a look at the washing process. There are many new sustainable washer detergents available for those who wish to go even greener. Conventional detergents are made from synthetic petrochemicals that are harsh to the environment. The best eco-friendly detergents are made without chemicals, are biodegradable, and contain no dyes or artificial fragrances. A helpful resource is TheGreenGuide.com, provided by National Geographic, which recommends detergents that are made up of plant-enzymes or ethanol rather than solvents. ConsumerReports.org also provides information on tested detergents, based mostly on criteria from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. The EPA encourages companies to strive for their Design for the Environment (DfE) label. This independent assessment looks at the ingredients of the detergent and ensures that the product meets toxicity and biodegradability standards. Through the many online reviews of environmentally friendly detergents, the best option I have come across is the brand called Seventh Generation. These detergents are low-sudsing and can be used in both high- efficiency and standard washers. Seventh Generation “Free and Clear” is the only detergent which actually lists all ingredients on its label, and comes in many forms, such as non-toxic liquid, powder detergent, fragrance-free (Free and Clear), and even detergent just for baby clothes. Although Seventh Generation seems to be the best option for environmentally friendly detergent, any biodegradable or non-toxic option is better than the alternative in terms of sustainability.

(information taken from consumersearch.com and greenamericatoday.org)

Q. My daughter’s waterbed sprung a leak, and everything that was saturated with the water now has a strong chemical odor. We have washed the items with regular laundry detergent but the odor remains. The most important item I’d like to save is the bed spread. Do you have a recommendation?

A. Thanks for your inquiry, and sorry about the mishap. I suspect that either the water had some type of preservative, and this is causing your issue, or the water inside the bed may have become “foul.”

You didn’t say if the bedspread was bleachable or not. Some colored items are bleachable. If you’re not sure, I recommend you try the quick Bleachability Test (2 tspn Clorox® Regular-Bleach in 1/4 cup water; apply a drop on a hidden colored area like inside seam, hemline or cuff; wait 1 minute and then blot with towel); no color change means it is safe to use bleach on the item. Any color change could also show you the amount of change in color that likely will occur if you proceed with the liquid bleach usage. You can see a demo on my blog (http://www.drlaundryblog.com) in the video Laundry 101.

If you proceed, do a quick liquid bleach soak (1/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach in gallon of cool water for 5 minutes, or fill your washer with enough water to cover the bedspread; add 1/4 to 1/2 cup of bleach, then the item) then wash immediately in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and 3/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach. Check for success after the wash cycle and before dryer drying. It might require multiple treatments to get the desired result.

If the item is not bleachable, I would first try a milder oxygen bleach like our Clorox2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster. Again, first do a quick Bleachability Test ( apply a spot of Clorox2 to an inside seam, wait 2-3 minutes, blot dry and check for color change). I would consider a 1/2 to 1 hour presoak in the Clorox2 (see label for instructions) before washing the item in the warmest water recommended on the care label with detergent and Clorox2. Check for success before drying, as you may more than one treatment.